It's going to be some time before we get used to the concept of Indian Time. It's about an hour and a half later than Spoken Time, and infuriating for Westerners like us. We met the Headmaster of Schwartz Boys' school and he seems to be the most together of all the people we've met so far. His idea is to get us the boys who want to learn English so we'll have willing pupils. I think we're going to have to take some of the teachers as well! They are all queuing up to talk to us – it's so great to feel wanted.

...

Madurai, 21:20: We're back, and in a bit of a mood with each other. We've been arguing all day, mainly about how bald isn't pronounced the same as bold (my point, C. thinks it is), and I'm not entirely sure that it's healthy. What is really pissing me off is how C. is trying to remain so English. He asks me to leave the room (ie. Face the mosquitos) whenever he takes a dump and I really don't see the point. He's still homesick and I can't be sympathetic because I'm very independent, and to top it all off he's terribly ill (the bastard) and won't admit it.

He's waved goodbye to his flu and just has an awful cough instead. I almost feel guilty because I seem to be unaffected by the change – I have no quarrel with the food, and apart from one occasion (halfway through church on Sunday), I haven't had the dreaded squits yet. I'm very lucky. I have an advantage in the fact that I like Indian food. C. doesn't. Just don't ask, okay? I think our relationship needs a bit of work, though, and as it's probably my fault I'll see if I can hold back my tongue.

I've stopped thinking in terms of English time, my body clock seems to have sorted itself out (along with my brain-clock saying 'go to bed! Go to bed!' all the time), which is a good sign, I think. As we sat in anticipation of our first meal in Ramnad, and were greeted by a variety of delicious smells, I suddenly realised that these were the same smells that I'd hated so much on the train to Madurai. I think I'm starting to fall in love with India just as C. is beginning to hate it.